Tampopo

I had forgotten I wanted to check out Lucky Peach, David Chang's collaboration with McSweeney's. But there it was sitting on the bookshelf at my friend's. I dug in immediately. The first issue is all about ramen and it's pretty amazing. The opening article finds Chang and his co-editor exploring the ramen culture of Japan, randomly popping into shops and finding the best noodles they'd ever eaten.

The thing that struck me was not only how varied and nuanced the ramen scene is -- that I already knew -- but how many chefs had dedicated their lives to perfecting their version of the dish. Many of the ramen shops in Japan are spots that only have seating for eight to twelve and the menu consists of one or two items. The spaces are so physically little because that allows the owner to exert better control over his food. The article's writer expressed admiration for how one chef took the time to make sure every ingredient was perfect for each bowl, each customer, day after day, month after month, year after year, for over twenty years.

There's something insane about that.

Do you remember the Vimeo last year about Di Fara Pizzeria in Brooklyn? The owner there has been cranking out his pizzas for over forty years and doesn't let anyone else touch his work. His children help him run the business but they do not touch the pizza. He just bangs them out himself, even as his body breaks down.

There's a lot to admire about this sort of dedication and single minded purpose but I think about how these people never take a day off, never let anyone help them, and then they grow old and sit around smiling at what they've accomplished. But what have they accomplished exactly? The best ramen in the world? The best pizza? Do they become immortal? Or do people just say "Man, I sure wish X was still around to make my pizza because I'm hungry. Oh well, Grimaldi's?"

I understand these guys are artists and craftsmen, but tales of (old) people doing the same thing over and over forever just make me sad. Was there nothing else they wanted to do? Nobody else who could help them? I'm gonna go get me some of that ramen though. Japan needs to happen soon. Slurp!